Feature Image: Exterior view of Libations
Our first night in Battambang made us realize that it’s not always buildings and historical sights that are the most memorable, sometimes it’s the people you meet that become your most vivid memory.
Exploring Battambang
After a much needed post-boat journey nap, we felt suitably rested enough to leave our budget-friendly Lux Hotel to explore the neighborhood.
Just as well we did because we were soon to discover that Battambang isn’t a party town like Siem Reap. Lots of restaurants close at 9pm, and you have to hunt around to find ones that stay open later.
Bric-à-Brac and Libations
Half a block from our hotel along Street 112, we were enticed like Hansel and Gretel into an ecclectic Bric-à-Brac shop cluttered with textiles, antiques, and local crafts that doubles as the backdrop to a casual al fresco bistro and local watering hole called The Libations Bar, located at the corner of Road #2.
This thriving business is nestled below a small boutique hotel called The Bric-à-Brac, and next time I’m back to Battambang with a bigger budget, I’m reserving one of the three tastefully designed colonial rooms here. A one night stay will set you back about $90 a night, not much when you see the care spent decorating each room, but unfortunately too rich for our blood on our current budget.
Meeting Robert and Morrison
The food menu at the Libations was also a little out of our price range, even for our flexible flashpacker budget, but the ambiance and exuberance of the two Australian hosts, Robert and Morrison, was enough to sway our decision to purchase a couple of special-occasion ciders. as we chatted to them about their journey from Australia to Cambodia, via Myanmar to set up their successful trio of Battambang businesses – the hotel, the shop, and the watering hole.
But that’s not all they do. Morrison is a textile designer, specializing in hand-crafted French-style trimmings, braids and tassels that get exported world-wide, so it’s no wonder the hotel rooms are so tastefully decorated.
Morrison proudly showed us a their award-winning Burma recipe book, which is a constant reminder of a country they lived in and loved, and still have a burning passion for.
“If you’re not planning on going to Myanmar, you should definitely add it to your itinerary on this trip … or your next trip … or any trip.” gushed Morrison.
Not to be outdone, in addition to his many cook books, Robert is a television food stylist, and most recently worked on the Angelina Jolie directed Netflix original “First they Killed my Father” based on Loung Ung’s memoir of the same name.
At Libations, angelic Cambodian boys scurried around the open-plan kitchen pouring wine and cocktails to be served to the smartly dressed expat set who were clustered in what seemed like a familiar semi-circle of chairs outside of the shop’s main entrance.
This human barrier to entrance or exist meant that the only way in to explore the collection of bric-a-brac was via the side door. A telling set up that Robert and Morrison place a higher regard on customer satisfaction than shop profits. But this necessary detour gave us an ideal location to savor every mouthful of our cold brews.
The food lovingly prepared by the staff, looked enticing, especially the cheeseboard and charcuterie platter, but even the prospect of some soft, stinky cheese wasn’t enough to tempt us to relax our purse strings even more.
Maybe it’s slightly gauche to ask a bistro owner to recommend another place to eat, but Morrison was happy to recommend a couple or nearby restaurants he was confident would still be open.
We reluctantly downed the last drops of our cider, and ambled off into the night in search of About the World.
If you’re planning a visit to Battambang, Bric-a-Brac would be my number one recommendation for overnight accommodation. Not just for the location, setting, and design aesthetic, but for the charming hosts who exemplify the “customer service is king (or queen)” philosophy. We found Battambang to be hot and humid, but the welcome at Libations was just as warm.
Robert and Morrison both obviously love what they do, and it was fabulous to be swept up into their orbit, albeit for the length of time it took us to savor our cider.
If you're planning an overnight stay in #Battambang, make time for a visit to the Bric-a-Brac hotel and shop, or at the minimum, a nightcap at their Libations Bar. #Cambodia Share on X
Other Resources:
- For images of this boutique hotel, the shop, and the surrounding area visit this blog post by Lieke on her travel blog Little WanderBook.
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Flashpacking through Cambodia
Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.
I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.
If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.
Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:
- Cambodia Visa and Arrival at Siem Reap Airport
- Cambodia: How to Avoid the Crowds at Angkor Wat
- Filling up your scooter in Cambodia
- The Best Tasting Street Food in Siem Reap
- Angkor Wat at Dawn: Is it worth it?
- Come face to face with Angkor Thom’s Bayon
- Good vs. Evil at Angkor Thom’s Impressive Southern Gate
- The Baphuon Temple and the Terrace of the Elephants at Angkor Thom
- Visiting Siem Reap’s War Museum
- Where to Stay in Siem Reap
- Visiting Siem Reap’s Markets
- Give your taste buds a disco at Siem Reap Night Market
- Responsible Tourism at Joe to Go in Siem Reap
- What to See and Do in Siem Reap
- Which Siem Reap Floating Village should you visit?
- Memorable Boat Trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
- Libations and Bric-a-Brac tempt our purse strings in Battambang
- Vegetable Amok at About the World Restaurant in Battambang
- Cooking Classes at Nary’s Kitchen Battambang
- Pomme Bar, Restaurant and Hostel, at the Core of the new Battambang
- An educational trip around Battambang’s Central Market
- Sightseeing and things to do in Battambang Cambodia
- Bayon VIP Bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh Cambodia
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark
- The challenge of wandering Phnom Penh’s streets
- A visit to Phnom Penh’s Central Market
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s Markets
- Phnom Penh Photo Diary
- Tops sights to see in Phnom Penh
- Touring S-21 Security Prison (Tuol Sleng Museum Phnom Penh)
- A reflective visit to The Killing Fields
- Taking a train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
- The majesty of Otres Beach sunsets
- Our Workaway Gig at Otres Beach Market Cambodia
- Working Away to make Cambodian Bagels
- Cambodia Pastry Wars: The Battle of the Quiche
- Our Cambodia workaway gig renovating a market stall
- Unwind on Cambodia’s Koh Ta Kiev Island
- Cambodian Beach Massage and Grilled Seafood
- Building Community during our Cambodian Workaway
- Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
- Christmas Eve in Kampot
- more coming
Wow! Thank you so much for such a wonderful write up. We really enjoyed the read.
We just managed getting through the Cambodian elections — an official 3 day holiday, but to celebrate what!
But the staff liked the break. Thanks again, Jay.
Morrison and Robert
I have never heard of Battambang but it looks like a quiet alternative for Siem Reap. Bric a brac looks like an awesome boutique hotel and Robert and Morisson are so accommodating hosts. Hope to visit Cambodia real soon.
Your statement about people making an impact on the vibes of a place that we visit is indeed so relevant. I liked the look of the Orientale room styled with Japanese furnishings. The four-poster bed was so enticing. Robert and Morrison look to be super talented considering how they have been enterprising and dedicated to what they do, it is nice meeting individuals such as these on travels. Libations does sound and appear to be one super uber place to be and visit with emphasis on customer experience.
All the rooms are super bijou, and well decorated. A shame they were well out of our budget. Whenever I think of Battambang, I immediately think of Robert and Morrison, even though we spent less than an hour with them. They had such passion for what they were doing.
Bric a Brac looks wonderful. For me service and kind treatment is a must and a make it or break it element for deciding on a place more so when it is a bit on the expensive side. Also absolutely agree with this, it is often people you interact with on your travels that leave a lasting memory both actually good and bad.
Also hadn’t hear much about Battambang until I read this. Thanks for sharing this post 🙂
Harshita recently posted..Trot From Home – Travel Experiences without leaving your nest
Most tourists go to Siem Reap and then never make it to Battambang, but it’s well worth taking a diversion here. So different than Siem Reap. A completely different vibe, and not so many tourist, and more of an authentic Cambodian experience.
I was in Cambodia a long time ago in 2009. It was one of my first Asian trips. On my route, I also stopped in a Battambang, but I don’t know the place you are writing about. Maybe it wasn’t there yet, or I didn’t notice it. But it seems interesting, and the story of owners must be great too. I would love to come back to Cambodia and see how much it has changed over the years. Your article has brought back beautiful memories.
Agnes recently posted..Carlsbad Caverns National Park Itinerary
I can only imagine what Cambodia was like back in 2009. I wish I’d visited before our trip. But when I was in Thailand in 1996 as a solo backpacker, I was too scared to venture to Cambodia or Vietnam… and stuck with the well worn backpacker trail of Thailand and Indonesia.
The Bric-à-Brac is certainly the place where I am going to put up when in Battambang. I know it would be a bit costly but since we travel abroad only once in a year we keep a budget slightly on the higher side. The rooms look small but then boutique hotel rooms tend to be like that. What especially attracts me is hearing about Robert and Morrison. It’s people like these who are customer focused and they draw me towards interacting with them and learning from them what made them do what they do.
Yes They were definitely customer focused, and had a passion for their businesses. When you suddenly find yourself in somebody else’s orbit like that, it’s easy to get some of that positivity to rub off on you. I loved that because we couldn’t afford to eat at their place, they pointed us in the direction of somewhere cheaper.
I had never heard of Battambang before. And yes as you said sometimes the people you meet on the travels make memories. They are very important and I have stayed in touch with few of the people I have met on the way.
I think people are the memories that prevail the longest and strongest.
Thank you for sharing your travel story about Battambang. This is the first time I heard about this place and I reckon my friends who visited Cambodia haven’t been there as well. Hope Cambodia is doing okay in times of Covid-19.
It looks like a fantastic boutique hotel. The experience we gather from locals while tracelling are priceless.
I have been to Cambodia but have never been to Battambang. I really loved the interior of Bric-a-Brac, especially the Orientale Room. It’s so beautiful. Also, the Libations bar seems to be uber cool.