Exploring Phnom Penh on Foot
There’s nothing I like better, than exploring a city on foot. As soon as you sequester yourself away on a bus or metro, you lose your connection to the city. Even though the November heat and humidity in Phnom Penh were both nearing 90 degrees, we declined numerous offers of a tuk-tuk ride – politely at first, and then as the heat increased the good manners slipped. But we were determined to walk all the way to the Central Market.
Phnom Penh – cross the road with confidence
Along the way we weaved in and out of major and side streets. There’s no such thing as a pedestrian cross-walk, and the traffic won’t stop for you. This isn’t a problem on the quieter side streets, but the only way to cross the major street is to take your life into your hands and walk out into the road, secure in the knowledge that any vehicle hurtling towards you will steer around you at full speed.
The trick to crossing the road is to walk at a steady pace. Don’t suddenly stop in the middle of the road, and Don’t suddenly rush or run part way across the street. Cambodian drivers are used to looking out for pedestrians and assessing their speed and changing their course in anticipation of where you’ll be when they reach you. If you suddenly change the speed of your gait, you’ll throw them off.
Of course when 8 lanes of traffic are coming at you, you’re hot and tired, and new to the country, it’s really difficult to place your trust in strangers behind the wheel. But a steady walk through traffic is an effective pedestrian technique, and one you need to master if you’re going to get anywhere.
Phnom Penh – a challenge to walk
Although pavements do exist, there are a lot of smaller streets without them, and those that have them are full of restaurant tables, parked tuk-tuks, and piles of rubbish making them impossible to navigate. So pedestrians are forced into the street with the traffic. It’s not an ideal situation when you’re sightseeing, and the close proximity to piles of rotting food and rubbish take any last vestiges of enjoyment out of walking this city.
Phnom Penh – a smelly city
The sweet smell of freshly washed laundry, hanging on rails outside laundromats is in complete contrast to the stench of debris piles and rubbish. These laundries became one of my favorite sights because I knew I could expect a break from the less-nourishing aromas found in the Cambodia’s capital city.
It might be better to wander the streets during winter time, but in the Cambodia summer the heat and humidity force the aromas to hang in the air and straight up your nose. I don’t know if the trash collectors were on strike, or the volume of rubbish we encountered was normal, but it ruined many of our walks and dialed down our enthusiasm of Phnom Penh.
Wandering along 172nd Street
After a while, all of these streets start to look the same. They all have the same look and feel, and this area of Phnom Penh definitely has a distinct look.
This spaghetti matrix of cables is a common sight in any Cambodian city.
I haven’t posted these pictures, and written this take on the city to put you off, but more to open your eyes to the reality of life in a capital city not long escaped from the clutches of a civil war. It’s not a ghetto by any means, but if you’re used to clean western city streets, Phnom Penh will be a bit of a wake up call. I thought I would get used to walking and exploring these streets, but I didn’t.
When you’re worried rats will run out of the rubbish piles (it happened) while you’re wearing flip flops – you tend to always be on your guard.
I don’t know what substance snuck between my bare foot and flip flop, but by the end our our first day, my shoe attire wasn’t flipping and flopping anymore, it was stuck fast to my heel.
On day two – I retired my flip flops for trainers.
Find out what to expect during a walking tour of #PhnomPenh. The smells. The traffic. The streets. #flashpacking #backpacking Share on X
Flashpacking through Cambodia
Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.
I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.
If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.
Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:
- Cambodia Visa and Arrival at Siem Reap Airport
- Cambodia: How to Avoid the Crowds at Angkor Wat
- Filling up your scooter in Cambodia
- The Best Tasting Street Food in Siem Reap
- Angkor Wat at Dawn: Is it worth it?
- Come face to face with Angkor Thom’s Bayon
- Good vs. Evil at Angkor Thom’s Impressive Southern Gate
- The Baphuon Temple and the Terrace of the Elephants at Angkor Thom
- Visiting Siem Reap’s War Museum
- Where to Stay in Siem Reap
- Visiting Siem Reap’s Markets
- Give your taste buds a disco at Siem Reap Night Market
- Responsible Tourism at Joe to Go in Siem Reap
- What to See and Do in Siem Reap
- Which Siem Reap Floating Village should you visit?
- Memorable Boat Trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
- Libations and Bric-a-Brac tempt our purse strings in Battambang
- Vegetable Amok at About the World Restaurant in Battambang
- Cooking Classes at Nary’s Kitchen Battambang
- Pomme Bar, Restaurant and Hostel, at the Core of the new Battambang
- An educational trip around Battambang’s Central Market
- Sightseeing and things to do in Battambang Cambodia
- Bayon VIP Bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh Cambodia
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark
- The challenge of wandering Phnom Penh’s streets
- A visit to Phnom Penh’s Central Market
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s Markets
- Phnom Penh Photo Diary
- Tops sights to see in Phnom Penh
- Touring S-21 Security Prison (Tuol Sleng Museum Phnom Penh)
- A reflective visit to The Killing Fields
- Taking a train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
- The majesty of Otres Beach sunsets
- Our Workaway Gig at Otres Beach Market Cambodia
- Working Away to make Cambodian Bagels
- Cambodia Pastry Wars: The Battle of the Quiche
- Our Cambodia workaway gig renovating a market stall
- Unwind on Cambodia’s Koh Ta Kiev Island
- Cambodian Beach Massage and Grilled Seafood
- Building Community during our Cambodian Workaway
- Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
- Christmas Eve in Kampot
- more coming
Yes many Asian cities can be a culture shock. Somehow the chaos is part of the charm.
I’m not sure “charm” is the right word! 🙂 …. of all the places we visited PP was our least favorite. It’s a country in transition and will find it’s feet. If I had a choice I’d much rather visit Ho Chi Minh city in Vietnam .. now that’s an amazing place full of charm!
Roving Jay recently posted..Mandala Wall Mural to quiet the mind
There’s much prettier cities than Phnom Penh but a visit to Cambodia would not be complete without at least one night in it’s capital. We staying in an air-conditioned hotel in a different part of town, so had a very different experience than yours.
We loved Cambodia .. but I think we just stayed too long in Phnom Penh because we had to wait for visas.
Sounds very similar to Bali and you’d be a superstar crossing the streets there too! Nice to read a realistic review of a destination … while everyone comes back from Bali saying how much they love it, first-timers can be quite shocked and possibly wonder what’s to actually love due to similar sidewalks, smells (and rats!).
My mum always said if you can’t say anything nice then keep quiet. But we had such a negative reaction to our stay in PP I just had to share. People will make up their own mind. For example, we had lots of travelers tell us we should just pass through Saigon/HCM and not stay there. But we loved it and ended up there twice. Just shows. We all like different places for different reasons.
So cool! I didn’t make it here when I was in the region. Reminds me of trying to walk and cross the street in Hanoi! Such an adventure:)
Didn’t make it as high as Hanoi. But it’s on the list for next time.
Great post! I agree-walking around a city is the best way to see it! I feel the same way every time I visit New York City, and the same with crossing the street. Keep your pace and cross-traffic will wait. Thanks for giving honest feedback on the city, it is nice to see the negative side to a destination as well to know what to expect when you get there.
I think there’s a tendency to portray destinations with rose-tinted glasses on, but we didn’t have a 100% positive response to PP, so it’s seemed only fair and right to convey our personal opinion. It’s up to the individual travelers to make their own minds up, as everyone will have a different experience.
hi
true, this aspect is there in Asia, not all countries or cities but in the majority of them. It arises out of a companion of population, space and resources available with the city administration. These are complex aspects and there is no ready solution in hand else it would have been implemented long time ago in many of the cities.
You’re so right. This country hasn’t long escaped from tyrannical rule, and it’s just finding its feet. It’s a complex issue of government and culture, and I hope that by sharing this post it raises awareness that travel to cities like this is not always a positive experience, but it’s what makes travel interesting. It’d be no fun if every place we visited was cookie-cutter squeaky clean and organized. I think a travel experience boils down to what you’re personally comfortable with, and Phnom Penh wasn’t always an enjoyable experience – but I’m glad I went, because it gave me great insight into the culture and history of the country.
I could have been reading about Hanoi in this article, I loved the description of Phnom Penh’s streets, I didn’t get there on my trip to Cambodia but will go back one day. Even though it is a culture shock to see the traffic, the stench and the rats I feel it all adds to the “charm” of the place. I agree walking around a neighbourhood is the best way to really “see” it and I can relate to the flip-flop scenario!!
Each city definitely has it’s own personality. I can’t wait to visit Hanoi and see more of Vietnam. We loved Ho Chi Minh city, it was so vibrant and easy to navigate.
I have always wondered what it would be like visiting Cambodia. Looks like it is a mix of good and bad experiences although I quite like the look of most streets except the ones which seems to be a little overcrowded.Mastering the art of crossing streets brought a smile on my face since it is quite similar in some small towns in India where traffic is not so well regulated.
The traffic was actually the most organized. You could walk across the street at a regular pace and everyone avoided you so expertly. It was a little nerve-wracking though.
Just like other countries in Southeast Asia, Phnom Penh also have that distinct charm.
I noticed that the streets look like in downtown Bangkok, and also here in Manila. Including the spider web-looking electrical wires, which I always wonder how can the electrician tell which wires are faulty.
I love walking around new cities as well. If I in a place for anything more than a day-trip, I prefer walking or cycling for a couple hours atleast to feel the flavour of the city.
I’m literally laughing at how you must have experienced crossing the road when vehicles are coming, but then you still cross with full confidence and the drivers know that too! I’ve had many such experiences in India! Hahaha….
3 months flashpacking in Cambodia is wow! That must have been quite an experience. I’m gonna head over to read your other articles.
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We always walk miles in a new city. You really get a sense of the city and its people, when you mingle in their day to day comings and goings.
I’m from the Philippines and we have the exact same situation. I guess it’s really like this in most Southeast Asian countries. But what’s really interesting is that Westerners always have a different perspective because we have an entirely different structure. When I first went to Europe, I was shocked at how organized and systematic it was. Imagine, in my country, there is not even a pavement to walk for pedestrians! Thanks for sharing this post. Xx
That’s why travel is so compelling and interesting isn’t it. We’ll always have a preconceived idea in our head about what to expect. I think we also tend to filter our experience through the knowledge of what we know. It was fabulous to hear the other side of the equation … a visitor from Asia coming to a western city – it never even dawned me to think how strange that must be! All that structure and organization must seem so alien. It can be too much at time — somewhere in the middle of chaos and order is the perfect balance… I wonder where that is?
Walking is my favorite thing to do too. I feel one gets to see the real life on roads and in the streets in between. Well, it was nice to get a real feel of phnom pehn’s streets. Some of the Indian streets are also busy and chaotic like this but then thats about Asia. And also, thats what is our charm, the wafting aromas, the colourful shops, the crowd and more. We are definitely proud of it.
Manjulika Pramod recently posted..3 Friends, Rainy Day and Our Trip to Giethoorn
Walking the streets is the best way to get in touch with the place you’re visiting. But I think some of these bigger Asian cities take a bit of getting used to!
Oh my goodness…I don’t think I’d cross the roads in PP! No pedestrian crossing in a chaotic city is a problem. This is such an honest review of PP from your perspective and I appreciate. At least now I know what to expect if I ever visit PP.
I read too many susie-sunshine blog posts that focus on the positives, and don’t share any of the less savory elements. So I hope that my blog posts present a balanced perspective to prepare visitors for what to expect based on my experience.
I love your manual how to cross the roads. Actually, when I got to Phnom Penh, I had already learned my lesson in Vietnam. But you’re probably never ready to cross with confidence. By the way, it’s interesting – and logical – that google maps actually indicates traffic lights in Phnom Penh.
I agree with basically everything you’re saying. The city is quite dirty and smelly. On my first day, it had rained so that all that dirt – dead rats included – was just floating around.
If I ever go back to Cambodia, Phnom Penh might actually be a place I’ll skip 😉
I have no desire to go back there there again. We overstayed because we were waiting for our visa to be renewed, so I’ve had my fill!