Seduced by Sunny Seville’s Quirky Charm

Horse Drawn Carriage Rides near Seville Cathdral

Arriving in Seville

After our rain-drenched days in Madrid, it was a relief to receive a warm and sunny welcome in Seville. I’d mapped out the bus route and walk it was going to take us to get from Sevilla Santa Justa Station to our old town AirBnB, but it was so hot when we arrived that we just hopped in a taxi instead.

Staying in Old Town Seville

It’s always a gamble to set high expectations based on a few online photographs and visitor reviews, but I was quietly confident that our little penthouse apartment was going to thrill us—and it didn’t disappoint.

Casa San Lorenzo Seville
Exterior of Casa San Lorenzo
Casa San Lorenzo Seville
Living Room at Casa San Lorenzo Seville

Yes Casa San Lorenzo was compact, but it had everything we needed, and there were so many windows overlooking the cobblestone street that it was flooded with light. There was a small galley kitchen between the the living room and the bedroom, and the whole place was open plan (except for the bathroom of course!)

Bedroom Casa San Lorenzo Seville

Although cars were allowed down the narrow streets near our apartment, we crossed paths more pedestrians and people walking their dogs.

We wondered if this dapper gent was a former bull fighter.

Dapper Spanish Gent on our street
Dapper Spanish Gent on our street

And we instantly fell in love with this well-behaved dreaded dog tied up outside of a corner shop. I wish we’d lingered around to find out if the owner looked like their dog—but we had places to be.

Dreadlock dog in Seville Spain
Doggie Dreadlocks

Our Favorite Tapas Bars

Our apartment was only a short stroll to some fabulous little squares, littered with tables and chairs from the cafes and restaurants that surrounded it.

These neighbourhood squares were by far the best discovery in Seville, and we discarded the map and GPS location finder and spent a lot of time just wandering the old town to see what little squares we stumbled across.

We discovered Café Hércules on the first afternoon, shortly after arriving, and we returned there a couple of times during our trip. It’s located just off Alameda de Hércules (also known as La Alameda), which is a long garden square with a vast array of bars, tapas bars, cafes, restaurants and a few shops.

Cafe Hercules Bar Seville Spain
Cafe Hercules

La Alameda was originally a promenaded public garden and nowadays attracts a mix of locals and tourist, and is a relaxed place to wander around and people watch.

Some days we went in search of tapas bars in he shade because it was too hot to sit outside in the blazing sun, and it was just too nice to sit inside.

Cafe Bar San Juan de la Palma
Cafe Bar San Juan de la Palma
Cafe Bar San Juan de la Palma
Square in front of Cafe Bar San Juan de la Palma
La Esquinita De Arfe Seville Spain
La Esquinita De Arfe

Getting Around Seville

We spent most of our time exploring the city on foot, and that’s the best way to make sure you discover out-of-the-way tapas bars that aren’t rammed with tourists. When we had a choice of walking down a main road or a side-street, the side street won every time, and we discovered some fabulous little hole in the wall dives full of friendly locals who were more than happy to give us local recommendations for where to eat and drink.

We spent an afternoon cycling around the city on our Bunny Bikes, and it’s a really easy and flat city to explore. There’s a comprehensive cycle lane system adjacent to the pavements, but so many of the tourists didn’t realize they were bike lanes and we had a few close shaves with people just walking out in front of us without looking. So just have your wits about you when you rent a bike and use the cycle lanes (and if you’re on foot—watch where you’re walking).

Bunny Bike Rental Office Seville
Bunny Bike Rental Office Seville

There are plenty of different bike rental companies in central Seville—and the pricing was more or less the same across the board. We rented off Bunny Bikes purely because of the name. Too cute to ignore. We also saw a lot of organized bike tours taking place around the city, so if that’s your thing, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Scissors in Seville
Random Scissors

On the way to the bike shop we wondered why there was a pair of scissors sticking out from an ornate historical building, so we followed the thread to see where it led. At the other end was this grumpy looking gent hard at work on his spinning wheel.

Seville local and his spinning wheel
Seville local and his spinning wheel

Not something you expect to see in the middle of the day in a the city centre, but representative of Seville’s quirky charm.

It would have been quite easy to stay within the confines of the narrow cobblestone lanes of the old city. It was seductively calm and easy to navigate (although we got lost numerous times—but isn’t that part of the charm of exploring a new city?)

Seville Cathdral Area
Seville Cathdral Area

But Seville has more to offer that this diverse old town, so we ventured further afield to explore the more touristy neighbourhoods. The ornate buildings and vibrant colours are the defining element of Seville’s personality, and if you want to visit a city that feels very Spanish—this is it.

Seville’s Cathedral Area

Seville Cathdral
Seville Cathdral

On Saturday we wandered around the grand plazas and wide avenues around the Seville Cathedral and Alcázar Palace. Stylish locals rubbed shoulders with a global mix or tourists and there was a definite air of people enjoying life to it’s full.

Alcázar Palace Seville
Alcázar Palace

As well as watching out for cyclists, you have to keep your eyes peeled for the trams that seem to appear out of nowhere, and the horse-drawn carriages.

Horse Drawn Carriage Rides near Seville Cathdral
Horse Drawn Carriage Rides near Seville Cathdral

This feels like the tourist-centre of the city, and although we’re glad we walked through here to see it first hand, we didn’t want to linger here too long. Instead, we walked over a couple of avenues to Parque de Maria Luisa.

Plaza de España

Whether you’re on foot or cycling, this pubic park is a great way to while away a few hours, and it’s expansive enough to never feel crowded. At the edge of the park is a large half-circle building called Plaza de España.

Plaza de España Seville
Plaza de España Seville
Plaza de España Seville
Plaza de España Seville

This stunning landmark of sweeping architecture features ceramic tiled alcoves depicting Spain’s major cities. The one below is of Toledo, Spain’s historical capital, that was replaced by Madrid.

Toledo tiles at Plaza Espana
Toledo tiles at Plaza Espana

In the shade of the colonnade we watch a raw performance on gypsy flamenco accompanied by the hypnotic pulse of the guitar. There was no way you could stand and watch and not be moved into a reaction.

Street Flamenco at Plaza Espana
Street Flamenco at Plaza Espana

The dancers and musicians were sweating with exertion, and the passion they brought to this traditional Spanish performance was inspiring. We thought we couldn’t possible see a better flamenco performance that this street style—but we were wrong.

Read my article about our night out in the Triana area, which is Seville’s old gypsy neighbourhood, and thought to be the birth place of flamenco.

After Seville, we headed to Granada for the final leg of our 4 city adventure.

Are you ready to be seduced by the quirky charm of #Seville? This city oozes authentic Spanish ambiance and there's a memorable tapas bar around every corner. Share on X

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Seduced by Seville's Quirky Charm

Author: Roving Jay

Jay is a project manager who swapped corporate life for a nomadic existence as a travel writer. She works with authors and entrepreneurs to help them achieve their self-publishing goals and reach their target audience through content marketing. Jay has published a series of travel guides, a travel memoir, and nonfiction books about travel writing. She housesits and volunteers around the globe with her husband, a Hollywood set painter, and she’s never more that 10 paces away from a wi-fi connection.

25 thoughts on “Seduced by Sunny Seville’s Quirky Charm

  1. Oh Sevillia…loved it when we visited it back in April…Easter..yes crowds. Love the quirky man you got a fab shot of him. Watching a gyspy flamenco would be lovely. We did go to a show when in Seville. Thank you for showing me a bit more of the beautiful place it is.

    1. Exploring the city streets can be just as interesting as wandering around a museum or historical site. I love street art, markets, and just losing myself in the side-streets of major cities. I just love that you never know what you’re going to see, and it’s those memories that stick with you and can endear you to a place.
      Roving Jay recently posted..London on a Budget is still possibleMy Profile

  2. I started my year and a half trip around the world from Seville and I fell in love with that city.
    Had the chance to try Cafè Hercules breakfast, I was living close by, and I enjoyed it so much. Thanks for sharing your experience!

  3. Seville – quite possibly my favourite Spanish city. Love the flamenco, the tapas. Have even considered moving here for a while! I have a photo of those random scissors too, maybe they are not as random as we both thought lol.

  4. Seville is my favorite place in Spain as it perfect city with full of culture, architecture and foodie’s place. I too loved the Seville cathedral area and riding on horse carriages is totally fun here. Staying in authentic Spanish hotel in old town is also worth.

  5. Love Seville and looks like we have some favourite tapas bars in common. Just discovered there are cheap direct flights from our local airport to Seville – woohoo! I just love that gipsy flamenco!!

  6. I can’t imagine a better place to sit, eat tapas and watch the world go by. Seville looks like a fantastic destination to spend a few days!

  7. Hello Roving and sorry for my English because I am from Sevilla y olé!

    Thank you very much for your article. I found it very funny, especially when you said talked about being seduced by sunny Seville’s quirky Charm. And after your rain-drenched days in Madrid, it was a relief to receive a warm and sunny welcome in Seville.

    And about not something you expect to see in the middle of the day in a the city centre, but representative of Seville’s quirky charm.

    Are you ready to be seduced by the quirky charm of #Seville? This city oozes authentic Spanish ambiance and there’s a memorable tapas bar around every corner.

    Thank you very much again for this funny moment and best regards!
    carlos recently posted..Artes marciales Sevilla: Top 3 sitios para aprender correctamenteMy Profile

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