A reflective visit to The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields Phnom Penh

Must-see, Must-do

Of all the places you can visit in Phnom Penh, you have to go to The Killing Fields and S-21 Security Prison. I know don’t seem likely candidates for a good day’s outing, but nothing gives you a better perspective of Cambodia’s recent history and turmoil, than experiencing both of these must-see locations.

The entrance to the Killing Fields
The entrance to the Killing Fields

We went to S-21 first, and our tuk-tuk driver waited for us to take us to The Killing Fields, which is further out of town. It’s full name is Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. Between 1975-78 around seventeen thousand men, women, and children were transported from the holding pens at S-21 to the Killing Fields to end their life.

In 1980, the remains of nearly nine thousand bodies were exhumed from mass graves found at the Killing Fields.

The Killing Fields skulls at the memorial stupa
Skulls of the victims of The Killing Fields atrocities

Many of the skulls from these remains are arranged by sex and age behind the glass panels of the Memorial Stupa in the centre of this outdoor museum.

The Killing Fields Memorial Stupa
The Killing Fields Memorial Stupa

Finding peace at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

Despite the horror and misery this place is drenched in, it’s a peaceful place to visit, and an ideal location for the inward reflection you’ll lose yourself in. I usually don’t like audio tours, because the headphones cut you off from your travel companions, and make the museum tour a solitary process. But in the case of the Killing Fields, that’s exactly what you need to do to fully appreciate what happened here.

Red listening to the audio tour at the Killing Fields
Red listening to the audio tour at the Killing Fields

The audio tour features Him Huy, a guard and executioner at Choeung Ek, detailing some of the education techniques used during his time there, which includes beating children to death in order to save bullets.

the Killing Fields tree where children were beaten to death Cambodia
The Killing Fields tree where children were beaten to death

This chilling soundtrack to your visit here, will leave you in no doubt about the atrocities.

After the heat, noise, and humidity of central Phnom Penh, the Killing Fields was a welcome respite. There is an aura of calm here, akin to the reverence of visiting a church or other religious site.

The Killing Fields grounds Phnom Penh museum cambodia
The grounds of The Killing Fields

As well as wandering around this open air museum, you can watch a fifteen minute video. We didn’t watch this, because by the time we have finished walking around the Killing Fields and listening to the audio, we were emotionally drained and just wanted to leave. So if you do want to watch the video, do it first, before your tour.

the Killing Fields Video presentation times
the Killing Fields Video presentation times

The location of the Killing fields is out of town down rural lanes, basically out in the sticks. A round trip tuk-tuk to the Killing Fields should cost around $15. We had a stop off at S-21, and negotiated $20 for the two stops with the driver waiting for us at each location.

Tuk Tuk to the Killing Fields
Tuk Tuk to the Killing Fields
  • Admission with Audio Tour $6
  • Open 7:30am to 5:30pm
  • http://www.killingfieldsmuseum.com

The Killing Fields has a dark past, but you need to understand Cambodia’s past in order to put your time in this country into perspective. This Killing Field is just one of many throughout Cambodia, and a vivid reminder of the Pol Pot regime.

The Killing Fields bracelet tribute
The Killing Fields friendship bracelet tribute

Pol Pot left his mark on a generation of Cambodians, so it would be understandable to encounter a country full of miserable people, but wherever we went, we were met with smiles and warmth. I vividly remember the Seventies – those were my teen years, growing up in a small town in the UK. Looking back at that time now, I can’t even begin to imagine what Cambodians went through during this era.

Broshar’s Adventures Video of a visit to The Killing Fields


No trip to #PhnomPenh is complete without a trip out to #TheKillingFields. Find out the best way to tour this historical site Share on X

Flashpacking through Cambodia ebook cover for Baby Boomers on a Budget
Flashpacking through Cambodia

Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.

I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.

If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.

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Author: Roving Jay

Jay is a project manager who swapped corporate life for a nomadic existence as a travel writer. She works with authors and entrepreneurs to help them achieve their self-publishing goals and reach their target audience through content marketing. Jay has published a series of travel guides, a travel memoir, and nonfiction books about travel writing. She housesits and volunteers around the globe with her husband, a Hollywood set painter, and she’s never more that 10 paces away from a wi-fi connection.

21 thoughts on “A reflective visit to The Killing Fields

  1. Such a beautiful and colourful place, even though its quite creepy. I must admit that this is not a place that has found it self up on my bucketlist 😛

  2. I visited here in 2002. After visiting S21 museum in the morning and then here, I was an emotional wreck by the end of the day. But I think it’s important that everyone visiting Phnom Penh should visit.

  3. This brings back such sad memories. I visited the killing fields a few years back although I didn’t take any photos out of respect and that I didn’t want them as a memory that I would stumble back across one day. It’s trully a sad place where so many innocent people lost their lives.

  4. I didn’t get to the killing fields when I was in Cambodia but one day when I return I will definitely pay a visit. It is hard to believe that these atrocities were happening only 50 years ago. A great blog to remember what the Cambodian people went through.

  5. I agree that a visit here is a must do for anyone who visits Cambodia. Seeing your photos & reading your words brought the emotion of the day spent here flooding back. It is a draining but necessary experience to understand the brutality we humans have the capability of & immense strength of the nation to come back from these dark times & like you say, smile. Seeing the Killing Tree again made me feel the wave of sickness which came over me the first time. Thank you for this post & for encouraging everyone to visit. It is such an important place on any Cambodian itinerary.
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  6. I remember watching the movie of The Killing Fields and being incredibly moved by it. I cannot imagine how emotional actually visiting the fields would be, but I know it is one place that I will visit when I go to Cambodia.

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