Feature Image: Red being wished Happy Christmas in Kampot

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Change of Plans

After abandoning the Cambodian Island of Koh Rong Samleon early, we packed up our disappointment with no idea where we were going to spend Christmas. In this day and age it’s easy to make advanced bookings and over-do the itinerary planning, but this can also take some of the spontaneity out of a backpacking adventure.

So as we sat enjoying an overpriced (but much appreciated) Nespresso in a friendly little cafe in Sihanoukville to make a plan. There was a travel agent a couple of doors away and we decided to plan our route based wherever the next bus was heading.

We were happy to go anywhere, as long as it wasn’t back to Phnom Penh, and so Red ran next door and found out that the next bus for Kampot was leaving within the hour. Enough time for a second Nespresso, while I hunted for somewhere to stay. We’d become a modern day Jesus and Mary, in search of a stable to lay our heads—minus the baby bump and donkey of course.

It was the 21st of December, so much of the accommodation was booked, and we ended up having to pay over the odds for somewhere to stay. We busted our budget, but it was Christmas and we couldn’t be homeless. I booked a couple of nights in Kampot to get us started, and figured we plan out the rest of of holiday once we got there.

Gecko Village was a lovely response to our island disaster. Over Budget? Yes! … but we were overjoyed to be spending a couple of days here to recover? Hell Yes! This accommodation was a little bit out of town, so we had to rent a scooter so that we weren’t stranded.

On our last night we moved into a bed and breakfast in the centre of Kampot town. The bed was comfortable, but as was a recurring theme in Cambodia, there wasn’t anywhere to hang our stuff, so we just spread it out on the floor (big thanks to whoever invented packing cubes!)

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After splurging on accommodation, we figured what the hell in for a penny in for a pound, and deviated from cheaper local dishes to get our fill of more expensive western meals. It was the Christmas and we were taking a break from our Workaway chores, so it felt like we were on holiday and needed something a little different than the norm.

I wonder if we’re the only ones who have a holiday within a holiday? 🙂

Expat Restaurants along 726 Street

Although there are lots of places to eat within the city limits, the main hub of international food along Old Market Street and the two streets south of there, and our favorite restaurants were along 726 Street.

This street full of colonial buildings, with restaurants on the ground floor and accommodation on the upper floors, and a vast majority of the places were run by expats who have traveled to Cambodia on holiday, and ended up making Kampot their home because of how easy it was to rent a premises and set up a business.

Ellie’s Diner

Ellie’s had been recommended as a good breakfast place, and we ordered two of the specials. Red with his healthier option of avocado toast with poached egg, and me with a gut-busting veggie hash and all the trimmings. I didn’t need to eat for the rest of the day, and I sat and nursed two americano coffees while I waited for it to settle.

It was run by a young American called Matt, who’d been traveling and landed in Kampot by chance. We heard similar stories to his at many of the other restaurants along this street. A meandering backpacker became an expat running a business.

Baraca (bARACA)

We had dinner at Baraca on our second night in Kampot, and the food was so good that we put our name down for a table the next night (Christmas Eve). Luckily they got a cancellation and we were squeezed in. It’s run by a Belgian expat and specialises in international-influenced tapas using imported and local ingredients. There was a distinct middle eastern influence to the menu, and we gravitated towards some Turkey-inspired tapas that took traditional Turkish dishes and reimagined them for a small plate.

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There’s a distinct Western vibe to this street and it was different than what were were used to during our travels, and we relished in it as something different but familiar. I certainly wouldn’t want the whole trip to be like this. We came to Cambodia to experience a slice of Asian history and cuisine – to immerse ourselves in a culture that had so recently been ravaged by tyranny, torture and death. We were flash packing because we wanted to interact with the locals not isolate ourselves in a western-style hotel. But coming to Kampot and spending time along 726 Street, gave us an insight into what draws westerners to this country and then entices them to stay. Starting a business is straight-forward, there’s minimal paperwork to navigate and it’s easy to rent a premises and start a restaurant or BnB with little or no experience. Health and Safety—forgedaboudit!

Experiencing Kampot

Kampot has a chilled coastal vibe, although only the southernmost part of the city is by the sea. The rest of the town sits on either side of a river, and attracts a steady stream of Cambodian visitors trying to escape the overpopulated cities and the tourist hot spots of Sihanoukville and Siem Reap.

Kampot attracts about ~1.5 millions tourist each year, but only about 10% of them are foreign nationals. This city takes pride in its appearance, and it was by far the cleanest and tidiest destination we visited in Cambodia. Each year the government hosts a National Clean City Competition, and Kampot is consistently at the top of the tables.

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Cambodia has gone from survival-mode to flourish-mode. As a country, it’s keen to show foreigners there’s more to it than a land-mine problem and tyranny, and Kampot is embracing that ideal and putting on a brave face for those you deign to step off the Siem Reap to Sihanoukville path and see Kampot has to offer.

Kampot is beguiling, and we knew we’d be back for a return visit.

The clean and tidy town of Kampot is worth stepping of the #SiemReap Tourist trail to experience a Cambodian destination with a chilled out vibe. #Cambodia #Flashpacking Share on X

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Flashpacking through Cambodia

Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in. I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B. If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here. Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:

• Cambodia Visa and Arrival at Siem Reap Airport
• Cambodia: How to Avoid the Crowds at Angkor Wat
• Filling up your scooter in Cambodia
• The Best Tasting Street Food in Siem Reap
• Angkor Wat at Dawn: Is it worth it?
• Come face to face with Angkor Thom’s Bayon
• Good vs. Evil at Angkor Thom’s Impressive Southern Gate
• The Baphuon Temple and the Terrace of the Elephants at Angkor Thom
• Visiting Siem Reap’s War Museum
• Where to Stay in Siem Reap
• Visiting Siem Reap’s Markets
• Give your taste buds a disco at Siem Reap Night Market
• Responsible Tourism at Joe to Go in Siem Reap
• What to See and Do in Siem Reap
• Which Siem Reap Floating Village should you visit?
• Memorable Boat Trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
• Libations and Bric-a-Brac tempt our purse strings in Battambang
• Vegetable Amok at About the World Restaurant in Battambang
• Cooking Classes at Nary’s Kitchen Battambang
• Pomme Bar, Restaurant and Hostel, at the Core of the new Battambang
• An educational trip around Battambang’s Central Market
• Sightseeing and things to do in Battambang Cambodia
• Bayon VIP Bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh Cambodia
• Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark
• The challenge of wandering Phnom Penh’s streets
• A visit to Phnom Penh’s Central Market
• Exploring Phnom Penh’s Markets
• Phnom Penh Photo Diary
• Tops sights to see in Phnom Penh
• Touring S-21 Security Prison (Tuol Sleng Museum Phnom Penh)
• A reflective visit to The Killing Fields
• Taking a train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
• The majesty of Otres Beach sunsets
• Our Workaway Gig at Otres Beach Market Cambodia
• Working Away to make Cambodian Bagels
• Cambodia Pastry Wars: The Battle of the Quiche
• Our Cambodia workaway gig renovating a market stall
• Unwind on Cambodia’s Koh Ta Kiev Island
• Cambodian Beach Massage and Grilled Seafood
• Building Community during our Cambodian Workaway
• Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
• Christmas Eve in Kampot
• more coming

 

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