Phnom Penh’s Central Market (Psar Thmei)
Despite swearing off markets after our Siem Reap adventures, we decided to walk all the way to the iconic Art Deco Central Market, also known as the New Market (Phsa Themei). It’s was constructed in the 1930s with a large central dome and four wings on shops and stalls extending from the central hall. You can buy everything from food, clothes, silver and gold, jewelry, clothes, household items, and flowers. There’s also a large food stall area which is crammed and noisy during lunch, and while you’re there, you can also get a haircut or your nails painted.
Central Dome area of Central Market
This majestic area has an airy unhurried feel to it, and there’s plenty of space to navigate around the different counters selling jewelry and coins.
If you’re in a group or want to split off from your shopping partner, the clock in this central area is an ideal meeting point, as it’s easy to spot from a distance.
Stalls at the Central Market
In stark contrast to the spaciousness of the central shopping area, the rabbit warren of stall corridors extending out in four directions are slightly claustrophobic.
But of all the markets we visited in Phnom Penh, this was by far the most enjoyable to wander around, and during our visit we came here a couple of times.
It was a true, working-market. In the clothing stall section there were women and men hard at work on their sewing machines, making new clothes and adjusting existing garments. So if you find a new outfit and it doesn’t quite fit, you can enlist the help of one of these seamstresses to adjust it for you.
The busiest plan in the Central Market was the area with food vendors. Tables were packed with lunching Cambodians, and the noise level in here was strenuous to the ears, and the pace was frenetic.
One elements of our trip here was seeing how the blocks of ice arrived into the market. A huge truck delivered blocks of ice, which were slid down tracks about the size of a narrow gauge railway line. At the end of the line a guy with an ice pick moved them to the stacking area.
This image below is a bit blurry as it’s a snapshot from one of my videos. But wanted to include it as a reminder to anyone thinking of asking for shaved ice in their drinks.
This continual delivery of ice to Cambodian markets is a necessity, because of the lack of refrigeration. These blocks are left lying around on the floor while waiting to be stacked, and are a stark reminder to second guess your choice of accepting shaved or chipped ice in your drinks–don’t do it!
Despite braving the heat during the walk to the market, we hopped on a tuk-tuk to take us back to our hotel. You can wander anywhere around the perimeter of the market to find one.
There’s also a convenient coffee shop just opposite the market, which has indoor and outdoor seating. It’s a great spot to people (and traffic) watch.
It’s called 53 Central Coffee (and looks like it might be part of a local chain). It seems similar to a Cambodia Starbucks, so is a bit pricey, but the Americanos were delicious, and we sat there for ages just watching, wide-eyed, as the ballet of cars, trucks, buses, mopeds and bikes danced their merry dance in front of us.
Would I go to Central Market again, and would I recommend you pay it a visit?
Yes!
- Open 6:30am to 5:30pm Daily
A visit to #PhnomPenh's central market was a stark reminder why you shouldn't accept shaved ice in your drinks. #Cambodia. Share on X
Flashpacking through Cambodia
Flashpacking through Cambodia: For Baby Boomers on a Budget is my latest Roving Jay travel guide full of travel tips, advice, and sample itineraries for flash packers who want the back packing experience without foregoing some of life’s creature comforts – like a comfortable bed, a hot shower, free wi-fi, and somewhere to plug your electric toothbrush in.
I spent almost three months backpacking around Cambodia in 2017/2018 to research this travel guide, and I share insights and first hand knowledge of tourist traps and off-the-beaten-path discoveries. We ate street food, drank 50c beers, and travelled by train, bus, minivan and tuktuk to identify the best ways to get from A to B.
If you’d like to receive a free Review Copy ahead of the general public release, please click here.
Here’s my Cambodia posts on this blog:
- Cambodia Visa and Arrival at Siem Reap Airport
- Cambodia: How to Avoid the Crowds at Angkor Wat
- Filling up your scooter in Cambodia
- The Best Tasting Street Food in Siem Reap
- Angkor Wat at Dawn: Is it worth it?
- Come face to face with Angkor Thom’s Bayon
- Good vs. Evil at Angkor Thom’s Impressive Southern Gate
- The Baphuon Temple and the Terrace of the Elephants at Angkor Thom
- Visiting Siem Reap’s War Museum
- Where to Stay in Siem Reap
- Visiting Siem Reap’s Markets
- Give your taste buds a disco at Siem Reap Night Market
- Responsible Tourism at Joe to Go in Siem Reap
- What to See and Do in Siem Reap
- Which Siem Reap Floating Village should you visit?
- Memorable Boat Trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
- Libations and Bric-a-Brac tempt our purse strings in Battambang
- Vegetable Amok at About the World Restaurant in Battambang
- Cooking Classes at Nary’s Kitchen Battambang
- Pomme Bar, Restaurant and Hostel, at the Core of the new Battambang
- An educational trip around Battambang’s Central Market
- Sightseeing and things to do in Battambang Cambodia
- Bayon VIP Bus from Battambang to Phnom Penh Cambodia
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s 172nd Street in the dark
- The challenge of wandering Phnom Penh’s streets
- A visit to Phnom Penh’s Central Market
- Exploring Phnom Penh’s Markets
- Phnom Penh Photo Diary
- Tops sights to see in Phnom Penh
- Touring S-21 Security Prison (Tuol Sleng Museum Phnom Penh)
- A reflective visit to The Killing Fields
- Taking a train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
- The majesty of Otres Beach sunsets
- Our Workaway Gig at Otres Beach Market Cambodia
- Working Away to make Cambodian Bagels
- Cambodia Pastry Wars: The Battle of the Quiche
- Our Cambodia workaway gig renovating a market stall
- Unwind on Cambodia’s Koh Ta Kiev Island
- Cambodian Beach Massage and Grilled Seafood
- Building Community during our Cambodian Workaway
- Gecko Village in Kampot Cambodia – a Photo Essay
- Christmas Eve in Kampot
- more coming
Hey Roving Jay! I’m glad you shared about those ice blocks lying on the floor, it should be an eye-opener for people concerned. The health of people is at risk. It’s no joke having diarrhea. I do love shakes and everything ice old, now I’m starting to think about how the ice on my drinks was handled? I’m planning to visit Cambodia soon. Thanks for sharing 🙂
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Luckily most places buy sealed bags of ice for tourist drinks. These blocks are for refrigeration at the market, because it’s the only option. No such thing as fridge or ice box.
We haven’t been to the country yet and it is high on our list, so going to refer your this guide for sure. Pictures are absolutely stunning. thanks for sharing
It was on our list for years, and I’m so glad we finally got to spend an extended time there.
Love a good Foreign Market experience! The delivery of those blocks of ice is really cool! Makes you take for granted our refrigerated transport trucks, and access to electricity for freezer rooms.
Yes Cambodia was a real wake up call for us, and all the things we take for granted.
You know, I have visited Phnom Penh and passed this market many times, but I never actually went there! I don’t mind having more reasons to go back, it’s a great city. It’s good to know about the way that ice is handled – probably best to avoid having ice in drinks when you’re there.
It’s an odd looking building, and we ended up going there a few times just to wander around.
Thanks for this nice recount of your experience! I’ve been to Phnom Penh but it’s been a while and the trip was very short en route to sihanoukville. But loved Cambodia in general and definitely plan to go back someday.
It’s changing dramatically Lauren, and will be a very different place. Sihanoukville has had a huge influx of Chinese investment, and there are casinos and karaoke places (that are fronts for drugs and prostitution). It’s been ruined, and I feel so sorry for the Cambodian population, the government are kicking people off land they’ve lived on for years, in order to sell it to Chinese investors.
Very interesting and detailed description of the Phnom Penh’s Central Market. I loved the Art Deco domed area so beautiful and spacious compared to the other sections. Great tip on the ice BTW.
It’s an interesting building, and this city seems to have so many examples of Art Deco architecture.
I visited here in 2002, it looks exactly the same. I must dig out my old photos, I’m sure they are still selling the same clothes lol. Forgot about the ice stacks on the floor – used to have ice in my drinks all the time, no problem. Guts of steel, lol. Thanks for bringing back some fun memories.
Yes I’m sure the same pairs of elephant pants are still on the same stalls!
I’ve never been to Cambodia, and I love southeast Asia. I think Cambodia, and Vietnam are going to be my next trips in that area. I’ve never seen people making clothes at the markets before, I have always just seen food being made. Visiting the local markets like that are my favorite thing to do when visiting new places. They tell you so much about the culture. Thanks for sharing!
You can’t beat a local market Chelsea! There was all sorts of work going on at the market, and so many people with machines making clothes.
I wouldn’t have expected this central market to be so pretty with the architecture. Thank you for letting us know about the ice that is a great travel tip!
There’s a real eclectic range of architecture in Cambodia, so much of it dating back to colonial times.
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I just love visiting markets when we travel, especially those in Asia. It’s a great place to try new foods, usually for a better price than restaurants. It’s also a great way to experience local life. Really enjoyed all your photos of this market, if I ever get to Phnom Penh I’m definitely going to the central market.
Markets give you a real sense of a new destination, and because people are busy selling and shopping, it’s easy to walk through the mass of humanity as an observer, and get a glimpse into their day to day lives.
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I love visiting markets when I travel and this one is an interesting one to see. I don’t know when I get to Cambodia so thanks for a tour. The ice block were just for refrigeration purposes, I don’t think they would offer this ice for consumption. I believe they have different type made in more sanitary ways that they offer for drinks. But I wouldn’t drink beverages with ice in it in 95% of Asia anyway.
I wouldn’t be so sure. I only use bagged ice in drinks anyway.. the article was really for effect 🙂